Valcourt FP5 Wood Fireplace

Fireplace & Ductless Heat Pump FAQ

You’ve come to the right place. Below are answers to the questions we hear most often about fireplaces and ductless heat pumps. If you don’t see your question, ask an expert — we’re happy to help.

Fireplace FAQ

Choosing a Fireplace

→ What size or BTU rating do I need for my space?

Fireplaces are often intentionally oversized compared to furnaces or heat pumps. Specifically, they’re typically used to bring a room up to comfort quickly rather than hold a precise temperature all day, so short‑cycling is less of a concern. However, for small rooms or when steady heating is the goal, a lower‑BTU gas or wood unit can run longer for more even temperatures. In general, for many living rooms, around 30,000 BTU is a common “standard” size across stoves, inserts, and built‑ins.

→ How do I compare efficiency between models?

In Canada, look for the CSA P.4.1 efficiency rating (often shown as “P4”). Importantly, this standard provides an apples‑to‑apples way to compare fireplace efficiencies. However, keep in mind that figures are manufacturer‑reported, so minor variations can occur between brands.

→ What’s the difference between inserts, built‑ins, and stoves?

Inserts slide into an existing fireplace opening (wood or masonry). Once positioned, they’re secured and finished with a surround/trim to cover gaps. Additionally, venting varies by fuel: gas inserts typically use two flexible liners (intake and exhaust) routed through the existing chimney; in contrast, wood inserts use a full‑length stainless liner designed to handle high flue temperatures.

Stoves (free‑standing) are stand‑alone appliances connected to their vent or chimney and installed with clearances to nearby combustibles. Think classic cabin wood stove—now also available in gas and electric styles as well.

Built‑ins (zero‑clearance units) are framed into a new opening and then finished over. Specifically, gas built‑ins use listed direct‑vent systems with specific clearances; meanwhile, wood ZC units pair with tested chimney systems rated for high temperatures. As a result, finishes can be very clean—sometimes only glass is visible.

→ Can I convert my wood fireplace to gas or electric?

Yes. First, the simplest path is a gas or electric insert installed into the existing opening. Alternatively, a more extensive remodel removes the old unit and installs a new gas or electric built‑in for larger viewing areas and design flexibility, with added framing and finishing.

→ Which brands/models are best for low maintenance?

All gas fireplaces should be serviced annually for safety and reliability. While older, simpler designs have fewer parts, they still benefit from yearly checks. In contrast, modern systems add conveniences (thermostatic control, fans, flame modulation) with more components. Overall, we favour ProFlame control systems found in quality brands such as Enviro, Urbana, and Napoleon.

→ What is the best type of fireplace — wood, gas, electric — or a heat pump?

It depends on your goals (heat, ambiance, backup, operating cost), your home, and local code. Bring photos and a quick wish‑list to our showroom and we’ll walk you through pros and cons for your space.

Gas Fireplaces

→ Do I need gas line upgrades or permits?

Permits are required for most adjustments to gas appliances, outside of repairs. Moreover, gas line upgrades may or may not be required depending on the age of your gas lines, as well as whether the original installer adhered to applicable codes. Specifically, we typically find more issues with older gas lines (20–30 years) compared to those done more recently, not just due to degradation, but because of upgraded codes or more lax enforcement in years past.

→ Direct vent vs. B-vent vs. power vent—what’s the difference?

Direct vent is a sealed system. For heating, it is typically the safest and most efficient, and it basically means both the combustion air to feed the flame and the exhaust/smoke go out the same pipe. As such, it is completely sealed from the inside dwelling and will not affect air quality or have a chance of the unit exhausting into the home. This type you will often see vented through walls; however, direct vent can also vent through roofs.

B-vent (or naturally drafted) means the combustion air is supplied from the home, and the smoke goes out the chimney—still just through natural draft—that is, heat makes the smoke go up the pipe. In several weather conditions, or if large mechanical exhaust fans are activated, this type of system has the chance of reversing the draft, which can be dangerous. It was the most popular system in the 90s into the very early 2000s; however, these days it is very rare for residential fireplaces.

Power vent has never been very common for residential fireplaces in colder climates, as it means there is a fan tied to the exhaust. With the way it is done on fireplaces, it also means most of the heat is sent outside. This type of system is more common in situations like a fireplace in a hotel lobby, where the heat is not needed and may even be problematic. Furthermore, they can also be quite loud, which is problematic in homes.

→ Can I run the fireplace without the fan?

In nearly all cases, yes—fans in fireplaces are typically just comfort fans which help distribute the heat out farther and faster. With that said, there are certain exceptions. Units such as the Savannah ABR19, the Regency E18, power-vented units, or double-glass luxury units by brands such as certain models by Flare, Urbana, or Ortal can use fans for other purposes which are integral to the function of the fireplace. Consequently, in these cases there will be safety overrides to prevent the fireplace from being used without a fan. These units will be among the few which do not work during power outages.

→ Do I need a thermostat or wall switch if I have a remote?

No—often a thermostat will be integrated into the remote. However, a wall switch can still be a good idea as a “kill switch” in case the remote is lost or damaged, but most people do not opt to have this done. Most older fireplaces used wall thermostats or wall switches as simple controls, as at that time remotes were not included with fireplaces.

→ Will glass get too hot for kids/pets? Are safety screens required?

The glass on most fireplaces does get very hot, yes. In Canada, as of 2015 there are rules about how hot the exposed glass can be; consequently, the two most common ways to meet these requirements are either a safety screen which blocks direct access to the glass, or on higher-end and larger fireplaces, second outer glass which is kept cool via a set of internal fans.

→ Can I change the media (logs, glass, stones) later?

Probably, but this is model-specific. Media placement is very important for the safe and efficient operation of your fireplace; therefore, the only media which should ever be installed in a fireplace are the options specifically approved by the fireplace manufacturer. Fortunately, most models will have a variety of options, so the accessories could be purchased separately and installed at a later date. However, this should be done by a certified expert, as it is often not as simple as just putting in the different media. Certain media will require different spacer/burner accessories, or even an entirely different burner, and failure to properly abide by the instructions would create the typical list of unpleasant things such as voiding warranty, creating unsafe situations, or potentially damaging the fireplace.

→ How much gas does it use per hour? What does that cost?

The “BTU Input” is a measure of how much gas a gas appliance uses. A typical fireplace is about 30,000 BTUs, and 1 WATT is equal to 3.41 BTUs. This means that a typical gas fireplace is 8.792 watts (~8.8 kW) if it were run for one full hour. The price of natural gas on Vancouver Island as of this writing is $2.30/GJ, which would translate to about $0.07/hr. However, just as with all utilities including propane and BC Hydro, there are a variety of other fees associated with the delivery of natural gas. Since these are static monthly fees which don’t vary based on use, to go any deeper you need to look at usage averages and basically, the more gas appliances you have and the more gas you use, the less it is overall per BTU (because those static fees are spread out over more usage, not because it gets cheaper). What people are typically interested in is a comparison with electricity, and a rough rule of thumb is gas will be around 1/3 the price, while propane is close to the same price.

→ Can I still use my chimney if I install a gas insert?

The portion of your flue which connects to the fireplace where the insert was installed will be used for the new insert venting. However, if there are other flues (such as a second fireplace), then yes, those other flues typically remain functional and unaffected by the installation of an insert.

→ What clearances do I need to mantel, TV, and sidewalls?

This varies drastically by model and design, as well as by TV, and should instead be discussed with your fireplace expert.

Wood Fireplaces & Stoves

→ What’s the difference between catalytic and non-catalytic?

The basic answer is that catalytic units use fancy science to be more efficient and more environmentally friendly. However, this scientific process is somewhat delicate, so they are more sensitive to proper burning procedures and have a slightly higher cost of ownership due to the catalytic converter likely needing replacement 2 or 3 times over the life of the appliance.

The catalytic process allows the smoke to burn rather than just the fuel—since the smoke is burning, you get more heat out of your wood and less emissions out of your chimney. However, the catalyst only works when it’s “exposed” to the smoke, so if it gets coated due to improper burning materials (anything other than cord wood) or worn down over time, the function decreases. Notably, catalytic stoves offer otherwise unheard of burn times, with many units listing 30+ hour burn times from quality manufacturers such as Blaze King.

→ Do I need a new chimney liner for an insert?

Yes, you do. Wood inserts require a full-length stainless steel liner designed to handle high flue temperatures safely and efficiently.

→ What are the BC/CRD rules for wood burning and emissions?

The rules can vary from region to region, as the oversight is dictated by the local municipality in most cases in our area. Therefore, the best bet is to check with your local authority. However, in general there are no outdoor wood burning appliances allowed, and installations should adhere to all applicable codes, which generally means the appliance installation manual and BC Building Code.

→ What wood moisture content is recommended?

15–20% is a pretty common recommendation, as well as seasoned for two years. Too dry will result in overfiring and low burn times; conversely, too wet will result in poor heating performance and quick buildup of creosote. Importantly, moisture meters are an inexpensive and drastically underutilized tool, and they typically have a handy “green zone” reference guide on a sticker on the tool.

→ How big should the hearth be, and what materials are allowed?

The hearth should at the very minimum be made of a non-combustible material. For the size, most inserts require it to be 18″ from the ash lip and 8″ wider than the unit on each side. However, as with all combustion appliances, rules can vary depending on the type and the specific appliance, so one should always consult the specific manual that applies to that fireplace. If it is a masonry or “Heat Form” fireplace, the rules are found in the BC Building Code.

→ Can I add an outside air kit? When is it required?

Yes, though they work a bit differently than most people expect. Specifically, they provide air to the proximity of the appliance; there is no way to pipe air directly into the combustion chamber of a wood appliance. In certain situations, such as when adhering to mobile home rules, the fresh air kit is absolutely required. In other cases, it will depend on the requirements listed in the manual and the home it is being installed into.

Electric Fireplaces

→ Do electric fireplaces provide usable heat or just ambiance?

Electric fireplaces are somewhat unique in that the answer is “it’s up to you.” Since the heat is not generated by the “flame,” most electric units can be run in a flame-only mode where no heat is generated, or a heating mode where they do put out heat. However, keep in mind that electric fireplaces typically put out significantly less heat than gas, and especially wood. They are a great choice for a smaller space such as a bedroom or a condo where the heat may not be desirable, but when it is required, the area is small enough that the electric can do a good job heating or supplementing the primary heat.

→ 120V vs. 240V—does it matter?

Yes. The simple answer is 120V provides approximately 5,000 BTU of heat, while 240V will provide approximately 10,000 BTU of heat. This will vary somewhat from model to model; however, the upper range of what can be achieved is dictated by the circuit, and 240V allows for approximately twice the heat to be pulled out of your electricity.

→ Can I recess an electric unit into a 2×4 wall?

Yes; however, electric units vary drastically. Some are as thin as 4 or 5″, while others can be over 16″ deep. Therefore, any specific questions such as this should be discussed in depth with a designer and/or a fireplace expert who can assist you with the correct options to realize your specific vision.

→ Are the flames realistic compared to gas?

It depends on the model and your eye. Today’s better electric fireplaces use multi-plane LED effects and layered media that can look surprisingly convincing—good enough to fool many people at a glance. That said, gas still produces real fire, with true height, randomness, and glow. Ultimately, the best way to decide is to see them side-by-side in person; realism is subjective and can be polarizing.

Installation / Renovation

→ How long does installation take and what trades are involved?

Fireplace installations typically take 1–2 days. Installations which involve removal of finishing and reframing will often require additional trades afterward, such as a tiler, drywall finisher, or finishing carpenter to redo the finish once the installation has been completed. Fireplace installation crews will typically be able to do all portions of the installation with a few exceptions—for electric fireplaces and wood fireplaces, an electrician will often be required.

→ Can a fireplace go in a bedroom or bathroom?

Yes, but some specific rules apply. Each fireplace model and installation will have different requirements based on local codes and manufacturer specifications.

→ Can I put a TV or built-ins above the fireplace?

Yes, but the specifics will vary from model to model, as well as from TV to TV. However, this is very common to do these days and many fireplace manuals have literature specifically regarding how to accomplish this setup.

→ What’s needed for zero-clearance installs in new construction?

There are a few considerations depending on the fireplace type. For electric fireplaces, it’s very simple—make certain a dedicated electrical circuit is run to the space of sufficient voltage and amperage capacity, and make sure the opening meets the requirements for the unit. Most electric fireplaces are installed after finishing; however, there are a few which are built in and finished over top of, similar to wood and gas fireplaces. We generally recommend that this not be done for electric fireplaces, as there is no need, and it makes future replacement (10 or 20 years down the road) much simpler.

For wood units, a flashing is typically required to be installed in the roof during roof stage. Depending on roof type, this may be done by the fireplace company or by the roofer; however, with a new roof it’s typically advisable to have the roofer do it.

For gas units, the same goes if it’s going through the roof; if it’s going through the wall, a thimble will need to be cut in and installed around the time rain screen is going up (but before siding goes up).

After that, typically the framing will be done by the building contractor, and we typically want to wait until just before drywall before installing the unit. In instances where the fireplace is on an outside wall, insulation, vapour barrier, and drywall will be required behind the fireplace, so it is ideal if this is done before the fireplace is blocking that area. The plumber and electrician will typically have roughed in gas to this location at this time, so the fireplace can be fully installed.

We will then come back once the build is complete, around the time of appliance delivery or final cleaning, and do a last setup, test firing, and cleaning of the fireplace so it is ready for operation when the owners move in. Importantly, some contractors like to use fireplaces as construction heaters during construction; however, we strongly recommend against this. Fireplaces have expensive internal components and fans and are not designed to be used as construction heaters with large amounts of debris in the environment. We strongly suggest after initial installation, the gas is locked off and the units are covered until ready for final.

→ Do strata/condo rules allow gas or wood retrofits?

Typically yes, but as always with stratas, it can vary by the specific strata. Each building and strata will have their own specific concerns and bylaws.

Common Questions

→ What is the white film on my fireplace glass?

The white film on fireplace glass is usually mineral residue left after combustion. A small amount is normal, and if your fireplace “fogs up” on startup, condensed moisture can leave streaks that highlight the residue. Fortunately, setting your pilot to continuous pilot (often called “cold weather mode”) can minimize this. However, be aware that the residue can be mildly acidic and may etch the glass if left in place. Therefore, we recommend booking fireplace maintenance near the end of heating season to clean and protect the glass.

If etching has already occurred, the glass surface will have micro‑abrasions that create a permanent white haze. Unfortunately, the only cure for etched glass is replacement.

→ I changed the batteries in my remote, and now my thermostat is gone.

Napoleon ProFlame II remote

Some remotes enter a programming mode if buttons are pressed while installing batteries. Consequently, it’s easy to trigger this by accident and hide the thermostat icon. Fortunately, if you have a ProFlame II style remote, this short video shows how to restore thermostat mode.

→ Will my gas fireplace work in a power outage?

Usually, yes — the burner will operate, but fans won’t. Specifically, newer electronic‑ignition units use a battery backup (commonly 4×AA). In contrast, older standing‑pilot systems don’t need batteries. However, a few models are designed to require fans for safe operation and won’t run without power; these are the exception. If you’re unsure about your model, feel free to ask us.

→ My fireplace makes a loud “POP” when it turns on or off. Should I be worried?

If the pop coincides with flame ignition, it may be delayed ignition from gas accumulating before lighting. Often this is resolved by annual service or correcting log/media placement; however, it should be checked by a qualified technician promptly.

On the other hand, if the pop happens a few minutes after on/off, it’s usually harmless metal expansion/contraction (“oil canning”). In fact, some models do this by design and there may be little to adjust.

→ Why should I have my fireplace serviced?

It’s about safety, reliability, and appearance. Our service includes combustion checks, safety inspections, cleaning, adjustments, and replacing wear items where needed — far more than just “cleaning the glass.” Learn more or book here: Gas Fireplace Maintenance.

Maintenance / Troubleshooting

→ How often should I service my fireplace?

Annually, as per Technical Safety BC, Fortis, and gas appliance manufacturer recommendations.

→ What are signs I should book service now?

If it’s August, it’s a good time to book it—we typically book out to November or December by the time the cold weather hits.

→ Why does my pilot keep going out?

Even on units which are serviced regularly, internal pilot cleaning is not a “regular” service; it is an “as-needed” item due to potential for breakage and other concerns. However, pilot orifices are very small and can have blockages which make them more prone to being blown out by the wind or during regular operation. When having your fireplace serviced, always let technicians know about any specific concerns or struggles you are having so they know to have a closer look at the related components.

→ Why does the glass fog or get sooty?

“Fog” is caused by a sudden temperature change and is simple condensation in the same way a cold glass of water gets droplets on the outside on a hot summer day. This is just water condensing out of the air and is normal operation, especially for electronic ignition units which are not set to have a constant pilot. This fog will burn away after running the unit for a minute or two.

Soot, on the other hand, is more likely to be a sign of some underlying issue—often incorrect air adjustment or improper media placement. This may look hazy or black and will not disappear once the unit warms up. It may also stain the exterior wall on horizontal applications—these are all signs that the unit should be serviced by a knowledgeable fireplace technician.

→ Why does the fan rattle or cycle on/off?

Fans in fireplaces operate in very dirty locations, so they unfortunately do have a life expectancy. Rattles can be signs that the bearings or bushings are wearing out, and it will typically worsen as time goes on. The only way to remediate this issue will be to replace the fan. While most fireplaces do not require the fan to operate, the fan does serve an important function in that it actually pushes the heat out into the room more evenly and more quickly—so the fireplace will still work if you just turn the fan off, but fireplaces without fans take much longer to heat the space, and the space will end up heated less evenly.

Fans cycling on and off is typically related to a temperature sensor—the sensor is designed to turn the fan off if the air coming out is too cold and to turn the fan on if the temperature is warmer. This prevents the fireplace from blowing cold air into homes.

Safety / Code (BC-specific)

→ What are the clearance-to-combustible rules near mantels?

These rules can be fairly complicated and vary by model. This question should be asked to the expert who is quoting the job and/or referenced in the certified appliance manual.

→ Do I need CO/smoke detectors in specific locations?

Yes—for wood fireplaces especially, BC code requires a CO detector be in the room with the solid fuel appliance. For gas appliances, it is a very good idea also, and especially for homes with gas boilers, gas furnaces, or gas water heaters, we strongly recommend every bedroom have a CO detector. This is code today, but in older homes this was not the case.

→ Are gravity kits or heat distribution kits required or optional?

They are typically optional, but certain high-efficiency units or specialty units may require them as part of their installation. This is the exception, not the norm.

Aesthetics / Finishing

→ What finishing materials are safe around the opening?

Normally, non-combustible materials will be required around the opening. Certain gravity kits may, when specific criteria are met, allow for combustible materials to be installed directly up to the unit; however, this is a potentially extremely dangerous situation, so it must be very specifically planned from early stages with the installer. There are a lot of unique considerations required to allow this to happen safely.

→ Can I retrofit a different faceplate or trim later?

Usually—most trims, especially for inserts, just clip on. As long as that model is still available, trims for it will also still be available.

→ How do I choose log set vs. glass vs. driftwood for my model?

This is purely aesthetic preference. While there are always exceptions, media options do not typically affect performance or function. Choose the one you like best and that best suits your space!

Ductless Heat Pump FAQ

General / Choosing

→ Single-zone vs. multi-zone — how do I pick?

Think of it as budget vs. comfort and control, shaped by your home’s layout. A single wall head can produce plenty of heating/cooling for an open area; however, it can’t push that comfort around corners, down long hallways, through closed doors, or between floors. Unlike a central ducted system, there’s no dedicated duct path—just the indoor unit’s fan.

When a single-zone works well: Open-plan main floors with short sightlines, doors usually left open, and you’re okay with “pretty good” comfort in the far rooms.

When to consider multi-zone: Multiple floors or long hallways/corners, bedrooms needing quiet independent cooling at night, home offices with doors closed, or you want room-by-room temperature control.

Common setups: Main living area only (great value for open plans), main area plus primary bedroom head (top-floor bedrooms run hot, or windows can’t be opened due to noise), or add a head for the basement or a small ducted attic unit to serve a few upstairs rooms.

Bottom line: start with a single zone if your layout lets air move freely; as soon as there’s real physical separation—floors, hallways, closed doors—multi-zone delivers better comfort and control.

→ What size (tonnage) do I need for each room?

Most multi-splits only go down to 7,000 BTU, so any bedrooms, offices, or other smaller areas which require conditioning will get that size by default. For other areas, it’s more complicated, as it’s a question of how much heat the overall space needs compared with how much of that space the unit will actually be able to distribute the heat to. Proper heat load calculations help with this; however, a lot of it is individual as well—simple differences such as sleeping with bedroom doors open vs. closed can make a big difference to how the conditioning will be distributed.

→ Are “cold-climate” models worth it here?

Usually no for Greater Victoria. Standard ductless units now handle our winter temps well. The upgrade costs several thousand more, so the math is simply: how many days are truly below a standard unit’s efficient range vs. the price delta. For most homes, that premium won’t pay back.

When it can make sense: higher-elevation/cold pockets, all-electric homes that need strong output below about −15 °C, or when chasing a rebate that requires it.

Practical alternatives: choose a slightly larger standard outdoor unit, or pair with supplementary heat (gas/wood fireplace or baseboards). Fireplaces shine on the coldest days and during power outages, taking the edge off without overbuying the heat pump.

Note: there’s a difference between being on a “cold-climate” list (a rating/eligibility designation) and being a true cold-climate unit. The former doesn’t automatically mean the equipment delivers the same low-temperature performance as purpose-built cold-climate models.

→ Which indoor head style (wall, floor, cassette) should I choose?

This mainly comes down to room setup. Some people are very aesthetically averse to wall-mounted units; however, they are by far the most popular. Cassettes are more popular in commercial settings, but in residential settings we typically do not recommend them due to noise from the pumps and service requirements. Floor units can be a good alternative for rooms where there are many windows and not a lot of upper wall space to mount a high wall unit, or where furniture placement (i.e., TV) complicates the wall-mount unit.

Performance & Operation

→ Do ductless heat pumps work in cold weather?

Modern cold‑climate models provide heat well below freezing. However, capacity does decline as temperatures drop, so selecting the right model for our local climate is important. Therefore, we’ll specify equipment based on your home’s heat loss and comfort goals.

→ How effective are they below freezing?

It depends on the brand and model tier. In simple terms, a heat pump moves heat from outside to inside, so the colder it gets outside, the harder it has to work. As outdoor temperature drops: capacity falls (it heats less), efficiency (COP) drops (it costs more per unit of heat), and defrost cycles briefly reduce delivered heat. At very low temps, some units approach the efficiency of electric baseboards (COP ≈ 1) while delivering less total heat.

The good news: on Southern Vancouver Island, our mild winters suit heat pumps very well, so these limits matter far less than in harsher climates. For cold snaps and peace of mind, pairing with supplementary heat (gas/wood fireplace or baseboards) improves comfort, reduces strain on the outdoor unit, and gives you a backup heat source during power outages.

→ Will a heat pump dehumidify in summer?

Yes—air conditioning removes moisture from the air, which helps with dehumidification. Ductless heat pumps also have a “dry” mode which is a slower type of air conditioning which increases the amount of water removed—so it dehumidifies even more. If dehumidification is a big concern though, sizing becomes even more important as the longer the unit runs (and therefore the smaller the capacity), the more it will dehumidify the space.

→ Why does capacity drop as temperatures fall?

A heat pump literally moves heat from outside to inside. When it’s mild, there’s plenty of “easy” heat to grab. As it gets colder—especially below freezing—there’s less available heat and the unit has to work much harder to collect it, so it delivers less.

Think of the heat outside like water in a sponge: Warm day = a soaked sponge—one squeeze gives lots of water (heat). Cold day = a nearly dry sponge—you squeeze harder and get less.

→ What’s that steam or smell during defrost?

Outdoor coils can frost up in cool, humid weather. To address this, the system periodically reverses to melt the frost; consequently, you may see steam and briefly feel cooler air indoors. This is normal.

Maintenance & Service

→ What maintenance do heat pumps need?

First, rinse or vacuum the indoor filters every 1–3 months (more often with pets or renovations). Additionally, keep the outdoor unit clear of leaves, snow, and lint. Finally, we recommend professional maintenance every 1–2 years to check refrigerant charge, electrical, drains, and cleaning of coils and blower.

→ What are common issues with heat pumps (leaks, ice, smells) and how can I prevent them?

Most issues stem from incorrect installation practices or inadequate servicing. Here’s what to know about each:

Smells: Typically caused by dirty condensate drain lines. Regular professional maintenance includes cleaning these lines to prevent odors.

Leaks: Should be caught during installation through mandatory pressure and vacuum tests. While fittings can occasionally loosen from vibration, annual service inspections catch these issues before they cause damage.

Ice buildup: Not actually a problem—it’s a normal part of operation in cold, humid weather. The system automatically defrosts when needed (see our defrost question above).

The best prevention? Professional installation and annual maintenance. Additionally, when appliance issues do happen, well-known, reputable brands offer very good warranty coverage when the unit was installed by a certified, competent installer.

→ How often should filters be cleaned?

Filters should typically be cleaned every 3–6 months. As with most maintenance questions, this will vary from household to household. Pets and older homes will typically result in more frequent cleaning being needed, while newer pet-free homes will be less prone to buildup. Unit location will also play a part, as lower floor units will typically be exposed to more dust than higher wall-mount units. Units near very active kitchens can have a buildup of grease which both clogs the filters and causes more particulate than normal to “stick.” Our suggestion is, upon getting a new system, clean it at 3-month intervals and use that to gauge the frequency they need to be cleaned based on how dirty each filter is after it’s actually been in use.

→ What professional maintenance is recommended and how often?

Annually for most homes. Heavy use, pets, kitchens nearby, or coastal exposure may justify every 6–12 months.

What we do on a routine visit:

Indoor units: Clean or replace filters; inspect and (if needed) clean coil and blower wheel; check condensate pan/line and flush; verify sensors, fan operation, and quiet bearings; tighten low-voltage connections; confirm remote/thermostat settings.

Outdoor unit: Wash coil and fan guard; inspect fan motor and mounts; check cabinet, base, stand or wall bracket, and vibration isolation; verify clear airflow and vegetation clearance; inspect line-set insulation and wall penetrations/seals.

System checks: Temperature split and airflow, electrical connections and voltage, defrost operation, drain heat in winter, start/stop cycles, and a leak/oil-stain visual on refrigeration fittings. (If ports are provided and warranted, verify charge by manufacturer method.)

Housekeeping and notes: Confirm noise levels, placement issues (snow/icing, drip lines), and provide any recommendations (filter cadence, kitchen grease mitigation, surge protection, etc.).

Why yearly matters: keeps efficiency up, reduces breakdowns, protects warranties (some require proof of regular maintenance), and catches early issues (dirty blower, clogged drain, failing fan) before they become expensive.

Defrost / Winter Operation

→ Why does steam rise from the outdoor unit?

During defrost, the unit makes the outdoor coil hot to melt the ice—so it is literally creating steam.

→ Why does indoor air feel cooler during defrost?

Because the outdoor coil is hot, it means the indoor coil is cool. The design is set up to minimize the actual distribution of the cold air during defrost mode; however, the units are basically running in air conditioning mode for a very short amount of time to melt the ice off the outdoor unit. If this is not done, the outdoor unit can no longer function.

→ Should I cover the outdoor unit in winter? (and why not)

For side-vented units, a “roof” is acceptable—this functions as a snow cover and does help operation. However, for units which blow vertically, as well as depending on the shape of any cover, it is extremely important that the airflow (both intake and exhaust side) is in no way compromised, or it will have a big negative impact on the function of the system. Installation manuals will have specific information about how close obstructions can be to the various sides of the units—this applies to covers, fences, decks, foliage, and any other potential obstructions which might be added after installation.

Noise

→ How loud are indoor units at low/medium/high fan?

Most are extremely quiet. While they will often have a “boost” type mode which ignores noise, the normal operation, quiet, and eco modes have a fan noise which is nearly inaudible.

→ How far should the outdoor unit be from bedrooms/neighbours?

Modern outdoor units are typically 50–55 dB @ 1 m (a bit quieter than normal conversation). For most homes that’s unobtrusive, but nighttime can magnify small sounds.

Practical guidance:

Bedrooms (yours or theirs): Aim for 3–4 m (10–13 ft) or more from bedroom windows when possible, and don’t aim the fan discharge directly at a window.

Neighbour side: Prefer the farther side yard or a location shielded by landscaping/fences (without blocking airflow).

Mounting: A ground pad with rubber isolation is usually quieter than a wall bracket. If wall-mounted, use anti-vibration feet and avoid echoey alcoves.

Night behaviour: Brief defrost whooshes can occur in the early morning—another reason to avoid bedroom window lines-of-sight.

Courtesy and bylaws: Check local noise rules, but the best approach is to talk to neighbours first and pick a considerate location.

Installation

→ How do you size a heat pump correctly?

We assess your home’s size, insulation, windows, air‑sealing, and preferred rooms/zones. Importantly, proper sizing balances comfort and efficiency and avoids short‑cycling.

→ What electrical work is typically required?

Most single‑zone systems need a dedicated breaker, an outdoor disconnect, and an interconnect cable between indoor and outdoor units. Additionally, we coordinate with licensed electricians as needed.

→ Where should the outdoor unit go?

On a stable wall bracket or pad with good airflow, snow/leaf clearance, and service access — and ideally not under a roof valley or eaves that dump water. Of course, we’ll review options on site.

→ Where should the outdoor unit go (noise/snow/drainage)?

This is a conversation that requires a site visit, as there are many considerations, and rules can vary in different regions. While heat pumps today are comparatively extremely quiet, they do still make noise and often operate in both summer and winter. During winter, defrost cycles may occur which can sometimes make sudden noises at the coldest times—which is often the early hours of the morning. Drainage is not typically a big concern—a nearby downspout, drain tile entrance, or natural ground where the water will naturally disperse away from the home—all of these are acceptable. Things to be careful of: in summer the individual heads create water, but in winter it’s the outdoor unit. Because of this, we want to make sure the water is not draining on any sort of surface where the water will freeze and create a slipping hazard that would not otherwise exist.

→ How many indoor heads can I run off one outdoor unit?

It depends on the outdoor unit, but the largest unit typically maxes out at 5 heads.

→ Can linesets be hidden in a finished home?

Sometimes, but it also depends on how much damage is acceptable. Lines can be fished through walls, run through attics, crawl spaces, and hidden with line-hide on the exterior. However, a fully concealed installation would be likely to require some damage and repair to various finishings such as interior drywall.

→ Do I need concrete pads or wall brackets?

Yes—the outdoor unit should sit on, and be attached to, a secure, level base of some sort.

→ What’s required for condensate drainage?

For heat pumps, condensate is just water. Unlike with gas appliances, there is no carbonic acid or other chemical impurities added to the water. As such, it is typically safe to simply run into a pre-existing drain or the ground without any special considerations.

Electrical / Controls

→ Do I need a dedicated breaker? What amperage?

Yes, by code a dedicated breaker is required. The amperage varies depending on the size of the outdoor unit, but the typical range for a ductless mini-split is 20–30 amps. This should always be specified by the installing company via the specifications for the specific unit being installed.

→ Do smart thermostats work with ductless systems?

They say they do, but typically compatibility is theoretical at best. An adapter is often required to translate from the heat pump to the smart system, and you can think of that adapter as a translator translating from one language to the other. As with any translation, something is almost always lost in the translation. There are nonetheless some clients who happily use smart thermostats with their heat pumps, but the majority just use the manufacturer-provided controls and/or apps.

→ Can I control it from my phone or integrate with HomeKit/Alexa?

This varies by brand and specific setup/accessories.

Rebates / Costs (BC)

→ What rebates or incentives are available in BC right now?

The main rebates right now are:

The income-qualified rebate through the Better Homes BC program. For mini-splits, there are income and home value requirements which, if you are under the threshold, you may be eligible for up to a $5,000 rebate. For centrally ducted systems and situations where you are replacing an existing fossil fuel heating system, larger rebates may apply. This one is a bit complicated as various regulations apply based on the income of adults in the household and the total number of residents in the household. It includes a variety of other upgrades which also qualify for rebates. https://www.betterhomesbc.ca/rebates/energy-savings-program/

There is a condo rebate as well, again with its own specific requirements. This is available to residents in a strata complex with 6 or more units, but it is also an income-qualified program. There is also a $3,500 allowance for a heat pump water heater in this program. https://www.betterhomesbc.ca/rebates/condo-and-apartment-rebates/

Lastly, there is a $1,500 or $4,000 rebate through the BC Home Renovations program for individuals currently heating with resistive electric heat (i.e., baseboard or electric furnace). The $1,500 is for homes which will be at least 50% heated by heat pumps, while the $4,000 is for those homes which will be heated 80%.

The programs constantly change or are replaced without warning, so it’s important to do your own research or speak to an expert. There are various resources available to consumers to help guide them through the process also, through websites such as https://homeenergynav.ca/retrofit-roadmap/

→ What paperwork is needed to qualify?

It varies based on the specific rebate. They will all require a copy of the paid invoice showing specific details of the system installed; the income-qualified programs typically require T4s to be submitted for a pre-approval. The $4,000 renovations program requires a specific type of heat loss calculation be completed to qualify, which is typically done by the installing contractor but is an additional cost.

→ What’s the expected payback vs. baseboards or oil/gas heating?

It depends on your house, your bills, and how much you heat. More use = faster payback.

Running-cost rank (most → least expensive): Oil ≈ Electric baseboards (highest operating cost), Propane ≈ Electric Furnace, Natural gas ≈ Heat pump (lowest; heat pumps usually win if sized/installed well).

When payback is fast: You’re replacing oil or baseboards, big/leaky or high-use homes, high local energy rates.

When payback is slower: Tight, well-insulated, low-use homes, replacing natural gas (gas and heat pumps are often close).

Practical notes: Envelope first: attic insulation, air-sealing, and very old windows/doors often give the best ROI and rebates. Heat pumps: performance depends on sizing/installation. Oil: highest fuel cost; equipment is aging and fewer techs service it. Baseboards: cheapest to install, most expensive to run.

Integration / Backup Heat

→ Can a heat pump work with my existing fireplace for outages?

Wood and most gas fireplaces are a great supplement to heat pumps, either when it gets too cold outside for them to perform economically or when the power goes out.

→ Do I still need baseboards or backup heat?

You don’t require it, but for any folks who have had their primary heating break down on the coldest days when most heating businesses are extremely busy, they might insist it’s important. Our recommendation is to have a gas or wood fireplace as a reliable backup source of heat.

Building / Strata Considerations

→ Are exterior penetrations and line-set covers allowed by my strata?

Most stratas, at this juncture, have created bylaws which specifically address heat pump installation permissible practices for their buildings. Each strata is within their own rights to create their own rules, so you would have to check with your own strata for specifics. With that said, with how prevalent heat pumps are, it is typically permitted.

→ Do I need permits for installation in Victoria/CRD?

For heat pumps, the only permit required is typically an electrical permit. In most municipalities this is done through Technical Safety BC (a provincial body), but in all cases it should be done by your heat pump contractor or electrician.

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